You’d be hard-pressed to find a group as well travelled as this Aussie jazz band, which calls Melbourne home. Frontman Felix Riebl chatted with Adam Baidawi about the city’s bohemian side

MELBOURNE HAS SEVERAL ICONIC JAZZ HAUNTS — WHAT HAS PROVED TO BE YOUR FAVOURITE VENUE?

One of my favourite gigs is playing at the Night Cat. It embodies Fitzroy. The band plays in the middle of the room, surrounded by people from all angles — they’re right next to you and you’re singing half a metre away. They used to pack the place so full that people would crowd surf to grab a drink. There was a lot of dancing. It’s quite a fun place to play. You felt like you were part of the crowd as you were performing. That’s where a lot of our World Music influences came out: Cuban music, African music… Fitzroy is a bit of a cultural melting pot.

WHERE DO YOU FIND YOURSELF REGULARLY GRABBING A COFFEE?

Mario’s (Brunswick St, Fitzroy) is really nice. We go there for a good breakfast a lot of the time. I used to live around that area and I’d always find myself there.  

FITZROY IS A MAJOR CULTURAL HUB. WHAT IS IT THAT REALLY CAPTURES YOUR ATTENTION?

It’s alive. It’s great living in the middle of all of that energy, especially with all of the musicians around there. And there are a lot of great joints like Kanela, the flamenco bar on Johnston St.

YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT?

Probably my favourite restaurant at the moment is a place called Coda, which is on Flinders Lane – they do mixed cuisine tapas, and I always enjoy it there. The European (Spring St, CBD) is a pretty reliable eating spot, too. That’s where I’d be if I was going out.

WHAT MELBOURNE SPOTS ARE YOUR TRUE FAVES?

I love the State Library (Swanston St, CBD). It’s really beautiful in there. I love being around that kind of library. I live in Carlton at the moment, and the Readings there (Lygon St) is where I usually grab my books. The thing about Carlton is that you’ve got the University of Melbourne up the road. There’s something about having a university close by… you can feel people thinking. The Italian community is a nice bunch, too. It’s a lovely area.

1 The Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia

Extending all the way from Warnambool to Geelong are 276km of what may be the world’s best roads for cycling, not to mention some of the best coastal scenery you’ll find anywhere. The Great Ocean Road is a must-ride for any cyclist, although it can be hazardous due to heavy traffic at the Geelong end. It’s best to avoid that section, especially at peak holiday times.

The official cycling guide to the route is available free from tourist offices along the way, and is great for general information. The suggested itinerary takes four days in total, but it can be done in two days by strong cyclists, with stops at Apollo Bay and Lorne. Each October, the Melbourne-to Warnambool bike race takes place along the road, one of the longest in the world.

Start from Warnambool to make the most of the prevailing winds, and also take time to check out the side roads around Cape Ottway. Cadel Evans often trains on the eastern section. For more details, visit www.greatoceanroad.org

2 Kuching, Malaysia

You needn’t venture far from Sarawak’s state capital to find both great road and mountain biking. There are a number of MTB race tracks close to (and in) town, which make great half- and single-day rides. The DBKU trail, a 5km loop within the city, is a challenging half-day ride. And just a few kilometres outside of town at Matang Hindu you’ll find the “Temple of Doom”, a great 6km ride, with lots of extension potential. For longer and more epic options, head out from Kuching towards Bau. Opt for a route featuring a mix of off-road trails and paved roads or do the tough full-day road ride. It’s about 45km each way.

The traffic-free rolling road from Kuching to Santubong is a real treat. It’s only 25–30km each way but you can add a dose of culture by heading down the kampung roads into the old town of Santubong and to the small fishing kampungs on the northern coast. For more details, visit www.borneobikers.com and www.borneoadventure.com

3 The Bataan Peninsula, Philippines

Just a short drive north from Manila (and an hour from Clark) is the Bataan Peninsula, a region immortalised by the horrific Bataan death marches of World War II. This is a stunning area, one that’s perfect for road and mountain-bike riding.

One of the best rides is a 120km circular road route from the Freeport Zone of Subic Bay, around the peninsula, and then back to Subic. This is one challenging ride, as it takes in two very long mountain climbs (of about 400m maximum height) and it’s always sweltering.

The jungle scenery is amazing and, for all but the Olongapo City section, the traffic is very light. The road passes through many rural villages and indigenous settlements. Be sure to stock up on food and water before setting out as supplies can be hard to come by along the way.

From Subic Bay, head south to Bagac and then over the mountain to Balango. Then it’s on to Hermosa and then back through Olongapo. It’s easy to follow this route.

4 Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Wild and untamed jungles, shrouded in a chilling mist; deep-green mountains and tea plantations set in rolling hills; that’s Cameron Highlands in West Malaysia. The former colonial hill station covers a huge, mountainous area that is perfect for cycling. It also makes for a great respite from riding in the heat of lowland Malaysia. The old route from Tapah Road to Tanah Rata is one of the most stunning rides in all of Asia. It climbs almost 60km, winding through dense and screeching jungle, and numerous Orang Asli settlements (of native jungle people) can be seen along the way. Once you reach the Highlands themselves, head for the tea trails. The ride to and through the two Boh Tea Plantations is just stunning – albeit a little challenging – but it’s well worth the effort. For a marathon mountain bike adventure, try the Jim Thompson route – a 38km killer. From Ringlet, ride through the jungle and then left to the Boh Tea Plantation. A real challenge for “mountain goats” is the ride to the top of Gunung (Mount) Brinchang.

Cadel Evans

Steve Thomas speaks with Aussie cyclist, world road race champion and Tour de France contender Cadel Evans

LAST YEAR YOU BECAME THE FIRST-EVER AUSTRALIAN WORLD PROFESSIONAL ROAD RACE CHAMPION, AND YOU WON IT IN YOUR EUROPEAN HOME BASE. HOW DID IT FEEL?

It was something of a dream. It was just three kilometres from my Swiss home. Going into the last couple of climbs my teammate was in the leading breakaway. On the final climb I had to hold back, I could not risk taking another rider up to him. When the gap between us was big enough and I knew I could go alone, I chased across the gap. He was just getting dropped. It was hard, really hard, but it worked out, and I won.

YOU’VE COME CLOSE TO WINNING THE TOUR DE FRANCE TWICE NOW…

In 2007 I lost the Tour by 23 seconds, the second-closest race ever. I lost the time on a mountain stage.

It was a big tactical disagreement with my team manager, and it was so frustrating. It should not have happened. I lost 40-odd seconds, and lost the Tour by 23 seconds. The following year it was 58 seconds, so that wasn’t so bad.

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO DO TO WIN THE RACE THIS YEAR?

If I’m going to win the Tour, or beat Alberto Contador (defending champion), I have to be a lot better. I have to improve. It’s all about hard work – you usually get out what you put in, that’s how I got here. It’s taken 15 years or so of working at it… so far.

HANOI

Even if you only taste nibbles and sip wine at Sofitel Legend Metropole’s sidewalk café, you’ll embrace the charm of Hanoi’s finest hotel.

Or splash out by booking the ever-popular Sunday brunch in the old-world Le Beaulieu restaurant.

ADELAIDE

Tincat Café mixes art and food in an 1856 building on the edge of the city’s CBD. The walls are hung with the work of emerging artists, while chef Matthew Standen scours local producers for his fresh ingredients.

PHUKET

Global hospitality group Golden Tulip has launched operations in Phuket with the opening of the Golden Tulip Mangosteen Resort and Spa. The hotel is keen to promote its fine dining restaurant, which is equipped with its own private underground wine cellar.

PERTH

Burgers are big in Perth. Matt Preston, the food critic who achieved national fame on the MasterChef Australia TV series, claims the burgers at Alfred’s Kitchen in Guildford are the best in Australia.

MELBOURNE

The Taste of Melbourne Festival (26-29 August) brings together the best of Australian produce and restaurants for travellers, locals and foodies alike. Participating restaurants to date include Stokehouse+ Bar, Longrain + Bar, Sarti, Maze, Fifteen and Mezzo with another seven about to sign.

SYDNEY

On August 11, Wildfire will hold its own World Cup competition with visiting chef, Nicola Cavallaro from Milan. He’ll do regional Italian dishes while resident chefs Luke Stepsys and Gregory Llewellyn Aussie traditions.

With his ethereal voice, this ARIA award-winner has earned fresh recognition for Australia’s Indigenous music, says Mikey Leung

"I was born blind,” declares Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu in one his songs. Yet that hasn’t stopped the Indigenous Australian artist from gracing stages worldwide and attaining celebrity despite his shy nature. We caught up with his musical collaborator Michael Hohnen, who serves as Gurrumul’s voice offstage.

YOU’VE RECENTLY RETURNED FROM A TOUR OF EUROPE, WHERE YOU EVEN DID A DUET WITH STING FOR FRENCH TV. HOW WAS IT?

Touring internationally and to be part of a duet with such an incredible international artist was not only a privilege but a pleasure. Initially, Gurrumul was hesitant, but when he realised that Sting was genuinely interested in Gurrumul’s music, it became a meeting of two musicians who highly respect each other.

GURRUMUL’S FAMILY WAS AT LAST YEAR’S INDIGENOUS MUSIC AWARDS. IT FELT GOOD?

To have his family involved at what is a prestigious event for Indigenous music really capped off a wonderful 18 months. What with winning ARIA Awards, his album going double platinum in Australia, deals made for Europe, the international concerts and then to bring it home where the family could be part of it was awesome.

HOW HAS GURRUMUL REACTED TO ALL THE ATTENTION HIS MUSIC HAS RECEIVED?

In a funny way he’s overwhelmed and in another way nonplussed about it. Gurrumul loves the fact that people are listening to not just his music but his community’s music. He loves travelling the world but it makes no difference to him wanting to be in the public spotlight – he still shuns it.

YOU HAVE A VERY SPECIAL MUSICAL RELATIONSHIP WITH HIM. WILL THE FUTURE BE THE SAME?

We had a strong relationship for many years prior, but the development through this album has led us to a greater understanding of our abilities as individual artists, and a greater love of music.  

ARE YOU AND GURRUMUL LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS YEAR’S AWARDS?

Absolutely. We look forward to them every year – they are really the ARIAs of the Indigenous music scene. Saltwater Band – the band Gurrumul plays with – will headline this year and they’re also up for an award for their new album, Malk.

This year’s Indigenous Music Awards are on 28 Aug at the Darwin Amphitheatre, George Brown Botanical Gardens, www.musicnt.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS

Australia may have made its name internationally with affordable, “sunshine-in-a-bottle” wines produced by big companies, but its boutique wineries with their passionate, often eccentric winemakers that are the most interesting places to visit. We lay out a fabulous wine trail highlighting the top ten cellar doors from the Margaret River in Western Australia all the way to the Derwent Valley in Tasmania.

Aussies love a great tipple and have elevated wine touring to an art form. “In contrast to their French, Italian and Californian counterparts, there is a complete lack of snobbery at Australian wineries,” says Andrew Caillard, director of Langton’s Fine Wine Auctions, “They want you to visit. Fine wine is much more democratic here.”

Each of the following wineries is idiosyncratic. They may be steeped in history or brand new. They may offer tasting platters of local specialties or the full-on restaurant extravaganza. They may be home to art galleries and cheese-aging rooms or none of the above. No matter what’s on offer, you can be sure these wineries have the X-factor that elevates swilling and spitting to an experience that oozes the good life.

South Australia

CHARLES MELTON, BAROSSA

Boyish-faced Charlie Melton embodies the image of the Aussie winemaker as artisan hero. He saw the potential in some of the world’s oldest Shiraz and Grenache vines, which were once used to make fortified wines in the Barossa. Today his Nine Popes – a cheeky reference to the famous Rhone winery Châteauneuf-du-Pape – which is made from century-old Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvèdre bush vines, is collected around the world. But you needn’t know the history to enjoy a pleasant afternoon sampling wines at the rustic cellar door or relaxing on the veranda with a lamb pie or cheese platter from the Barossa Valley Cheese Company. You’ll no doubt meet Charlie, too. “He’s very engaging,” says Andrew, “always up for a good yarn.” You can even base yourself nearby in the historic German kirche (church) which Charlie’s wife, Virginia, has just converted into a luxury vineyard accommodation.

CORIOLE, MCLAREN VALE

“If you didn’t know better you’d think you were on a hillside in Tuscany,” says Ralf Hadzic, owner of Life is a Cabernet wine tours. Coriole pioneered the growing of Italian grape varieties in Australia and its Sangiovese is among the nation’s best. Surrounded by delightful gardens, Coriole’s 1860’s farmhouse cellar door also offers tastings of the Lloyd family’s olives, olive oils and Woodside cheeses. Enjoy a picnic platter under the mulberry trees and marvel at the views over McLaren’s vales all the way to the sea. Coriole also stages classical music, Shakespeare and poetry events. “I brought the composer Philip Glass here once and he was knocked out by the place. I couldn’t get him to leave,” says Ralf.

SKILLOGALEE, CLARE

Located in an 1850’s Cornish miner’s cottage set amid expansive cottage gardens that make the heart swoon, Skillogalee “was the coolest winery I visited,” says US journalist Brian Smith. “The house is right out of a Dickens story.” According to Ralf, it also happens to serve the best food in the Clare Valley, including a mighty fine afternoon tea, which you can enjoy on the veranda or in the shade of an old olive tree. The name Skillogalee comes from a Gaelic word meaning “poor man’s soup.” You can also sample the Palmer family’s hand-made Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. For those who can’t bear to leave, there is a luxury sandstone house with an open fireplace and terrace, plus two cottages.

Western Australia

LEEUWIN ESTATE, MARGARET RIVER

Dennis and Trish Horgan’s Leeuwin Estate is “the quintessential contemporary winery”, according to Andrew. The towering Karri trees place it smack in the emotional heart of the Margaret River, which English wine writer Jancis Robinson calls the world’s most beautiful wine region. Sample their world-class Chardonnay and, in the cellar art gallery, check out the original paintings by the leading Australian artists whose work graces the winery’s acclaimed Art Series wine labels. Enjoy a delicious meal on the restaurant terrace overlooking the spectacular site of the winery’s renowned al fresco concerts, which have featured the likes of Ray Charles, Sting and the London Philharmonic. Trish reflects, “We started with a blank sheet. Thank God we didn’t know what we couldn’t do.”

Victoria

TAHBILK, NAGAMBIE

Drive past Tahbilk’s 1860 Shiraz vines, some of the oldest in the world, on the way to the historic multi-tiered wooden winery with its horse-hitching rails under an alley of plane trees. Here you can sample its signature Shiraz and Marsanne wines and explore the atmospheric cellar and museum. The winery’s name comes from the Aboriginal expression tabilk tabilk, meaning “place of many waterholes”. Owner Alister Purbrick says, “We have this remarkable heritage as the oldest living winery in Australia but we decided that by restoring the property’s amazing wetlands we could add even more appeal to Tahbilk as a fascinating place to visit. Today the wetlands and the café have become destinations in themselves”. There is no better way to work off lunch than by taking a wetlands cruise or a stroll along the timber boardwalks to look for rosellas, egrets, eagles and swans.

GIANT STEPS, YARRA VALLEY

Named after jazz saxophonist John Coltrane’s first solo album, Giant Steps redefines the cellar-door experience. It is not down a dirt road in the heart of a vineyard, but instead injects a little bit of urban chic into the country town of Healesville. Better yet, the glass-sided winery allows visitors to observe every step of the winemaking process. Beyond that, you can sip coffee, microbrewed beer or wine while watching bakers make bread, pizza bubble in the wood-fired oven and coffee being roasted.

There’s a cheese-aging room and a terrific all-day bistro menu, free wi-fi, and oh yes, tastings of Giant Steps’ single vineyard wines – Chardonnays are standouts – and companion winery Innocent Bystander’s “playful and exotic wines made in earnest”.

MONTALTO, MORNINGTON PENINSULA

Montalto’s rammed-earth winery overlooking a natural amphitheatre of vines makes for an ambitious and eclectic mix. “It’s a world-class experience,” says regular visitor Nevile Lyngcoln, “you can taste exceptionally good Chardonnay and Pinot noir at the cellar door, relax for hours over pizza and antipasto at the Piazza Café or enjoy top-quality French-inspired food in the restaurant with its floor-to-ceiling windows. Overall, it’s a lovely, relaxed setting and the views are magnificent.” If you want to stretch your legs, explore co-owner Wendy Mitchell’s expansive, heirloom kitchen garden and olive grove, wander around the estate’s sculpture collection or, better yet, take a nature walk to the wetlands for a private picnic – delivered in style via a red Morris Minor – at a shaded table set with white linen.

Nsw

TYRRELL’S WINES, HUNTER VALLEY

“Tyrrell’s Wines is a must-visit winery because of its great history,” says Andrew. “Its dirt floors and huge red-rimmed barrels are so evocative of an earlier time.” The cellar door is located in the original 1863 winery building but there is nothing fusty about Tyrrell’s expert personnel, who cross the nation to lead excellent tastings of wines from the family-owned vineyards. Try the Vat 1 Semillon and Vat 47 Chardonnay before taking one of the nation’s best winery tours, offered Monday to Friday at 1.30pm. “My father pretty much invented cellar-door tourism back in the 1960s as the best way to sell wine,” says CEO Bruce Tyrrell, “and we haven’t looked back since.” At harvest time, you can even help plunge the red wines in the huge open vats.

Tasmania

MOORILLA ESTATE, DERWENT VALLEY

Gambling-syndicate millionaire owner David Walsh calls Moorilla Estate an adult Disneyland. The Age newspaper reporter Gabriella Coslovich describes it as “a place of sensory and (legally) subversive pleasures where the worlds of art, architecture, food, wine, beer and ideas collide”. Located in a peninsula on the banks of the Derwent River, 10km from Hobart, Moorilla Estate’s winery produces Tasmania’s signature cool-climate varieties, its microbrewery creates beers under the Moo Brew label and its Source restaurant features a grazing menu of Mediterraneanstyle dishes. Its eight dramatic pavilion apartments, decorated with edgy contemporary furnishings and art, are named after Australian architects and artists. But the pièce de résistance is the now-under-construction, fortress-like A$75- million (S$96 million) Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), which is dedicated to the themes of sex and death. Once completed, it will be the largest private art museum in Australia.

Queensland

SIRROMET, MOUNT COTTON

The sub-tropical state of Queensland might not seem like the ideal setting for a vineyard, yet Sirromet’s bluestone and burnished wood winery sits high on Mount Cotton on the outskirts of Brisbane, with splendid views of the sea. At its heart is Restaurant Lurleens, one of the nation’s best winery restaurants. Chef Andrew Mirosch is fanatical about fresh local produce – much of his supply is grown on-site – as well as seafood from Moreton Bay. “I always enjoy visiting because of the beautiful location, open spaces and gorgeous food and wine,” says regular visitor Elisabeth Topham. While the vineyards are sequestered in the Granite Belt high country, the eclectic range of high-quality wines is made right here. The cellar door offers tours and tastings as well as grazing platters and live jazz on weekends.

FIND IT:

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Charles Melton, Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, Barossa, tel: +61 (0)8 8563 3606, www.charlesmelton.com Coriole, Chaffeys Rd, McLaren Vale, tel: +61 (0)8 8323 8305, www.coriole.com Skillogalee, Trevarrick Rd Via Clare, tel: +61 (0)8 8843 4311, www.skillogalee.com.au

WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Leeuwin Estate, Stevens Rd, Margaret River, tel: +61 (0)8 9759 0000, www.leeuwinestate.com.au

VICTORIA
Tahbilk, Mulberry Dr, Nagambie, tel: +61 (0)3 5794 2555, www.tahbilk.com.au Giant Steps, 336 Maroondah Hwy, Healesville, Yarra Valley, tel: +61 (0)3 5962 6111, www.giant-steps.com.au Montalto, 33 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South, Mornington Peninsula, tel: +61 (0)3 5989 8412, www.montalto.com.au

NEW SOUTH WALES
Tyrrell’s Wines, 1838 Broke Rd, Pokolbin, Hunter Valley, tel: +61 (0)2 4993 7000, www.tyrrells.com.au

TASMANIA
Moorilla Estate, 655 Main Rd, Berriedale, Derwent Valley, tel: +61 (0)3 6277 9900, www.moorilla.com.au

QUEENSLAND
Sirromet, 850 Mount Cotton Rd, Mount Cotton, tel: +61 (0)7 3206 2999, www.sirromet.com

Become a Wine Guru

Want to impress your friends with your Aussie wine knowledge? Here are a few tips:

Mention Australian wine and many people think of big bold Shiraz from the Barossa that you can almost cut with a knife. And, indeed, there are some mighty fine examples from Rockford, Elderton, Langmeil, Charles Melton, Yalumba and Grant Burge that are the ideal accompaniment to roast lamb. But there are tremendous variations in climate, landscape, grape types and winemaking styles in Australia’s 64 wine regions, which stretch for thousands of kilometres across the continent.

When it comes to white wines, there isn’t much that compares to a crisp Sauvignon blanc from the Adelaide Hills (Shaw and Smith, Nepenthe), enjoyed with a plate of oysters, a luscious Chardonnay from the Margaret River (Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Cullen) with heartier seafood dishes, or a fragrant Riesling from the Clare Valley (Grosset Wines, Mount Horrocks Estate, Skillogalee) with poultry.

Try some great sparkling white wine from Tasmania (Moorilla Estate, Josef Chromy) or a distinctive, aged Semillon from the Hunter Valley (Tyrrell’s Wines, Brokenwood, Bimbadgen) or Marsanne from Victoria’s Nagambie region (Tahbilk, Mitchelton). As for reds, check out a hearty Grenache from McLaren Vale (d’Arenberg, Chapel Hill, Penny Lane, Wirra Wirra) or enjoy a Cabernet from the Coonawarra (Hollick Wines, Penley Estate) with a thick, juicy steak.

And try a Pinot noir from the Yarra Valley (Chateau Yering, de Bortoli, Giant Steps, TarraWarra Estate) or Mornington Peninsula (Main Ridge Estate, Paringa Estate, Montalto), which goes perfectly with duck and game dishes. Also growing in popularity are Italian varietals, such as Sangiovese (Coriole) and Barbera (Sam Miranda, Brown Brothers). Either is perfect with antipasto and pasta dishes.

With the opening of two new integrated resorts in Singapore you can now eat shop – and gamble – to your heart’s content in the city-state. Resorts World Sentosa is home to the Lion City’s first casino, as well as Asia’s first Universal Studios theme park. There is also a mall, hotels, performance venues and restaurants. Still to come is a museum and the world’s largest Oceanarium. Closer to Singapore’s banking district, another casino behemoth, Marina Bay Sands, had its grand opening in April. It features an array of celebrity chef-run restaurants, shops, show venues and conference facilities, all in a striking new building designed by Moshe Safdie. There is even a “SkyPark” located 200m above street level, which has forever changed the Singapore skyline. But be prepared for crowds: officials hope the casinos will help Singapore reach its target of attracting 17 million visitors a year by 2015. Don’t walk. Run.

One of nature’s unforgettable sights is the annual migration of whales to warmer waters. Don’t miss it!

1 Hervey Bay, Queensland

This coastal city, about a four-hour drive from Brisbane, is known as Australia’s whale-watching capital. Witness the return of Humpback whales from early August until the end of October.  

2 Byron Bay, New South Wales

The eastern-most point of Oz is home to more than just hippies. Whales have been seen close to shore at beaches such as Tallows, Wategos and The Pass. Head to the lighthouse for panoramic views.  

3 Albany, Western Australia

Both Humpback and Southern Right whales arrive in King George Sound, about a four-hour drive from Perth. You can catch a glimpse of them from shore, from the air and from whale-watching boats.  

4 Warrnambool, Victoria

Just a three-hour drive from Melbourne on the Great Ocean Road, Logans Beach is a popular spot to see female Southern Right whales. View them from the platform in the sand dunes or from the beach.  

5 Port Stephens, New South Wales

Whale-watching cruises are conducted in this gorgeous coastal region about an hour’s drive north of Sydney. As an added bonus, you may even spot dolphins closer to shore.

Going touring in the Territory? Mikey Leung offers four customised itineraries

PHOTOGRAPHY TBC

SUNDOWNERS

There’s a saying among residents of the Northern Territory that “NT” stands for “Not Today, Not Tomorrow, Not Tuesday and Not Thursday.” In other words, why rush things when you could be enjoying yourself – say, by taking in a spectacular Darwin sunset with a cold bevvy in hand?

For casual drinks and frequent live music performances, the Ski Club is the place to go. After the sun goes down, enjoy the 10-minute walk here from Mindil Beach Sunset Market. Cocktails can also be enjoyed at the more upscale Sandbar, and you might even be tempted to hit Skycity’s gambling tables at some point.

Finally, join the crowd that mixes it up drink-wise at the Beachfront Hotel, which is in close proximity to Casuarina Beach, Darwin’s longest and the prettiest place in town to watch the sun touch the sea.

Ski Club, Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 6630

Sandbar, Skycity Darwin, Gilruth Ave, The Gardens, tel: +61 (0)8 8943 8888

Beachfront Hotel, 342 Casuarina Dr, tel: +61 (0)8 8985 3000

MARKET MOVERS

To get acquainted with Darwin’s multicultural side, visit its intimate night markets, where there are plenty of bargains to be had. The Mindil Markets, located at Mindil Beach, are the best and largest of their kind in Darwin. You can find just about anything here, from grilled kangaroo fillets to didgeridoo music CDs. Most meals sell for less than A$10/S$12.

The best laksa (A$7/S$9) in town is dished out every Saturday at Parap Markets. Look for the crowded stall in the heart of the market, where proprietor Mary serves up the Asian noodle dish like a bartender on a busy Friday night. It’s worth the wait. Finally, every Sunday in the Nightcliff/Rapid Creek area, the Rapid Creek Markets offer a wide range of Asian foods. You’re more likely to hear Thai than English here.

Mindil Markets, Sun and Thu, 5–10pm, May–Oct, www.mindil.com.au

Parap Markets, Parap Village, Sat, 8am–2pm, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 0805

Rapid Creek Markets, Sun, 7am–1pm, tel: +61 (0)8 8948 4866

OUTDOORSY

Opportunities abound for visitors wanting to get out into nature. While it might be tempting to go for a swim in the ocean on a sweltering day, the presence of predatory saltwater crocodiles makes it a risk that’s not worth taking. Instead, take a drive to one of the parks nearby for a cooling dip in a rock pool. Litchfield National Park has plenty to choose from and it’s just a one-hour drive from Darwin. Wangi Falls is large enough to accommodate its many visitors, but if it’s peace and quiet you’re after, visit the Buley Rockholes.

For families, the Territory Wildlife Park is the ideal spot to enjoy Darwin’s unique tropical environment. You can even get up close to a live saltwater crocodile among other creatures from the wild. After a wander through the park, stop in for a soak at the tropical paradise of Berry Springs.

Litchfield National Park, 120km from Darwin, all attractions open from June, tel: +61 (0)8 8999 4555

Territory Wildlife Park, 62km from Darwin, tel: +61 (0)8 8988 7200, www.territorywildlifepark.com.au

ARTY TYPES

A journey to Darwin offers travellers the chance to admire Aboriginal art and maybe even take home a painting or other artwork. Start your art tour at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory (MAGNT), which has both permanent and travelling exhibitions of Indigenous art. If you’re in town after 13 Aug, you can also see the works that competed for the 27th Telstra National Aboriginal & Torres Strait Islander Art Award.

As an added bonus, the Darwin Convention Centre hosts The Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair from 12–14 Aug. On Mitchell St, the Aboriginal-owned Maningrida Arts & Culture cooperative is home to some unique art works and the Deckchair Cinema screens movies under the stars. Movie selections are made by the Darwin Film Society.

MAGNT, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8999 8264
Aboriginal Art Fair, tel: +61 (0)8 8924 4514
Maningrida Arts/Culture, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 4122
Deckchair Cinema, tel: +61 (0)8 8980 6000, www.deckchaircinema.com

Enjoy a peak experience of the culinary kind, says Helen Dalley

BUFFET

Located in hip new business hotel East, Feast is renowned for its fresh, packed buffet, so pile your plate high with cold cuts, freshly baked bread and European favourites like ratatouille and roast potatoes with balsamic vinegar. Leave room for Feast’s light-as-a-feather cupcakes and dreamy crème brûlée. 29 Taikoo Shing Rd, Island East, tel: +852 3968 3968, www.east-hongkong.com

CANTONESE

Popular restaurant chain Jade Garden, with six locations, remains a firm favourite with locals and tourists alike thanks to its delicious, authentic food, smart décor, friendly staff and sensible prices. In addition to dim sum, there is a solid selection of healthier dishes to choose from – all based around tofu and vegetables. www.maxims.com.hk

ROBOTAYAKI

Chef Tonoyama Mitsuo gets your taste buds singing with dishes like Miyazaki A5 beef sirloin skewers at Busy Suzie, a hip new robatayaki restaurant housed in a former lighthouse. It also boasts one of the best selections of sake in town. Shop 209, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 2369 0077

HIP

From its lofty location on the 29th floor, Aqua offers sensational views of Victoria Harbour and dazzling food to match. Highlights include roasted scallops served with green asparagus and cherry tomatoes and a calorific dessert platter featuring a marvellous white chocolate mousse with rosemary. If the Sex and the City girls were in town, they’d be making reservations. 1 Peking Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 3427 2288, www.aqua.com.hk

SPIRITUAL

Located beneath the Vajradhara Buddhist Meditation Centre, the Peace Café serves up a sin-free selection of seasonal organic vegetarian dishes, from soups to hearty lasagnes. The menu also features fair-trade coffees, herbal teas, freshly squeezed juices and a tasty tofu cheesecake. 21-23 Tai Wong St, Wanchai, tel: +852 2527 5870, www.worldpeacecafe.hk

WINE

One of the few independent restaurants in Hong Kong to own a Michelin star, Cepage is a favourite with oenophiles thanks to a wine cellar stocked with over 2,000 bottles. Austrian chef Thomas Mayr’s inventive menu includes dishes like filo cone with quince and foie gras. 23 Wing Fung St, Wanchai, tel: +852 2861 3130, www.starstreet.com.hk/cepage

STEAK

If only a hunk of USDA prime or a certified Black Angus will do, BLT Steak is the place to go. Its succulent steaks are served with creamed spinach, onion rings and jalapeño mashed potatoes. Watch the ferries sail past as you chow down at this USstyle eatery. Shop G62, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 2730 3508, www.bltsteak.com

SIZE

What makes the Euro-Asian menu at SML so special is that all the dishes – and wines – are available in small, medium or large. For mains, try the spicy penne Arrabiata or crispy pork belly and applecabbage coleslaw. Then blow the diet with a large caramel profiterole with butterscotch sauce. 11/F, Times Square, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 2577 3444, www.smlrestaurants.com.hk

PHOTOGRAPHY BRENT MADISON

The traditional longtail boat skims across the lake on a journey to our floating rafthouse accommodation. The long nose of the wooden vessel cuts through the still waters of Cheow Lan Lake – home to Ratchaprapa Dam – stirring the humid, 32° C air into an intoxicating brew of jungle and lake scents. Limestone outcroppings – formed from the coral seabed over 220 million years – extend upwards from the water, majestically crowning the horizon in all directions. Rich forests in all shades of green stubbornly cling to hillsides. The water colour ranges from azure to emerald to shocking burnt orange where the lake dances with the red earth. Beyond the drone of the car engine that powers the boat, primal cries from the jungle fill the air. For the moment, the eerie sight of dead trees rising out of the lake draws my thoughts to the depths below.

Leafless, lifeless trees stand like tombstones in a watery grave marking the final resting place of lowland wilderness, farmland and communities that were lost 22 years ago. The area, roughly one-quarter the size of Singapore, was flooded to serve as a reservoir for the Ratchaprapa hydroelectric dam. Built by the Electricity Authority of Thailand (EGAT), the dam harnessed the energy from southern Thailand’s longest free-flowing river to provide close to two percent of the country’s electricity demand at that time.

A wildlife evacuation effort was led by the late Thai conservationist Seub Nakhasathien, who eventually took his life in a desperate cry for the wellbeing of the kingdom’s natural world. The operation rescued 1,300 animals but many failed to survive the stresses of relocation. The casualties outside of the rescue were vast: fish died from changes in water depth and temperature, gibbons were trapped on small islands without the minimum 200,000sqm needed to support a family, elephants and deer lost their foraging grounds, caves and ancient trees – home to many creatures – were submerged, and people lost their homes, farms and businesses.

However, there is an upside to the story. The displaced villagers accepted monetary compensation and nearby farmland offered to them by EGAT, and the lake offered them the chance to start over. Today, some of those affected operate simple, floating raft houses for tourists. Others are fishermen, guides or boatmen working 100m above the submerged ghost towns they once called home. Health clinics, schools, temples and orchards still stand on the lake floor as life sails on above.

Cave guide Vuit grew up in a farming
family that lived in the lowlands. That was
before the flood. Adventure-seeking scuba
divers now explore caves that were once a
playground for Vuit. Preferring to keep his
feet on the ground, he guides us through
Coral Cave, or Tum Bagaarang as it is known
in Thai. The lake waters carry tourists on

simple bamboo rafts right up to the cave mouth, which was once too high for easy access. With a fluorescent light powered by a battery pack strapped to his back, Vuit leads us into the darkness.

Sommai Somoson, nicknamed “Na”, escorts guests looking for easy access and a fifteen-minute caving experience to Coral Cave. For the more adventurous, he recommends a hike to 500m-long Namtaloo Cave. Four hours is required to hike through the lush jungle, past “communist” bunkers and through the extensive river-fed cave.

In the ‘70s, the area was a stronghold for anti-government activists, labelled as communists, who inadvertently served as conservationists while keeping logging companies and development at bay. Na warns, “It’s a good cave but when big rains come it is dangerous, sometimes with flooding.”

But it’s not just local residents and tourists who have been drawn to this sweet spot over the years. Beth and Dick Balsamo were among the first farang (foreigners) to visit. Beth recalls their first encounter with the area almost 20 years ago: “During a holiday in Khao Sok National Park, we trekked 10km to the lake and got covered in leeches along the way. It was all worthwhile and we vowed to return to enjoy the birds and the wildlife. We did return, and this time we used the fishermen’s pier and brought kayaks atop a songthaew (the two rows of benches in the back of the pickup trucks that are used for public transportation).”

Today, it’s not only the birds that call them back. Dick and Beth offer yoga courses in cooperation with visiting teachers on a floating platform at Cheow Lan Lake. When they’re not on yoga mats, Dick leads participants on jungle treks, but recommends “safaris” by kayak for a less sweaty experience.

Choosing the low-sweat, leechless option, I hop in a kayak well before dawn and sleepily paddle along the shoreline to witness the rainforest awakening. The show begins with the sultry emergence of daylight. Treetops find definition in the fading darkness as the croaking of frogs plays second fiddle to the music of birds and the sound of wingbeats rustling the bamboo. A shape, barely discernible, appears at the water’s edge. Then, as if raising a flagpole to stake its claim, the wild boar hightails it into the bush, leaving behind a gamey, animal scent.

Birdsong gives way to sudden squawks and a crescendo of crashing branches as hornbills plough through the forest canopy. Out of sight, but not out of earshot, a female lar gibbon – an ape with white tufted fur ringing its face – belts out a whooping cry, laying claim to her territory and likely her mate. Later, a troop of gibbons puts on a circus performance, swinging in the treetops. The safari is more about sounds than sights, as the wildlife enjoys the protection of the dense jungle – as it should.

Tales of tiger sightings deepen the intrigue. These fierce predators – along with leopards, sunbear snakes, tapir and wild elephants – remain in small numbers in the forest, but are rarely seen. I am content to enjoy close encounters with dusky langur monkeys as they visit the water’s edge for a drink, and with the hornbills’ cousins, the woodpeckers, as they busily tap holes in the standing dead trees.

In a tiny bamboo floating bungalow with rattan walls and a thatched roof, I sleep like a baby – baby Moses to be exact, safe in his basket, bobbing on the water. A mosquito net – comforting but largely unnecessary – surrounds my mattress on the floor. I crawl out before first light, flip open my backpack and hear a gentle splash as my mobile phone slides through the bamboo slats into the depths of Cheow Lan Lake. Normally, such a loss would send me into a panic. But here among the peaceful, invigorating energy of water, rocks and rainforest, I simply mumble an apology to the fish that have been invaded by a bit of technology and head out for a starlit swim.

THE FINE PRINT

When To Go:
The wettest months are May through November, when temperatures are consistent with year-round daytime highs of around 30° C. Most guidebooks suggest dry-season visits, but don’t dismiss the rainforest in the rainy season. To enjoy the area at its most tranquil, avoid weekends and national holidays. There’s plenty of peace and quiet on the lake at these times, but hotel rooms that typically accommodate two guests will house eight to 10 Thais.

Getting There:
Cheow Lan Lake in the Thai province of Surat Thani is accessible via the town of Baan Ta Khun, which is about an hour’s drive from Surat Thani town, two hours from Krabi International Airport and just over two hours from Phuket.

Where To Stay:
Book a package through one of Thailand’s many travel agencies or through Thailand’s National Parks Information Centre, tel: +66 (0)7 739 5139, www.dnp.go.th/index_eng.asp Ploenprai Rafthouse is one of the few raft houses with a web page. tel: +66 (0)81 892 6321 or +66 (0)81 893 9583, www.krabidir.com/ploenprairafthouse. A basic stay including three meals starts from THB800/S$35/A$29 per person per night.

What To Do:
Guided Tours: Sommai “Na” Somoson, tel: +66 (0)80 718 2284

Sea Canoe: Thailand’s oldest and most respected kayaking tour business offers excursions to Cheow Lan Lake and beyond, tel: +66 (0)76 528 839~40, www.seacanoe.net

Jungle Yoga: Check the online calendar for yoga retreats and workshops on the lake. Guide Beth Balsamo conducts classes, www.jungleyoga.com

For Further Reading:
Waterfalls & Gibbon Calls – Exploring Khao Sok National Park, by Thom Henley. Visit www.thomhenley.com for other notable books on Thailand’s natural world.