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Sydney is the perfect setting for a slamming summer weekend getaway. From touchdown on Friday afternoon to takeoff the following Sunday night, Julietta Jameson details a sure-fire itinerary for a short break to remember
6PM
Drop off your bags and, for the perfect scene-setter, head straight to the Opera Bar. Few other places in Sydney offer the holy trinity of sights: the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and the merry to-and-fro of the ferries at Circular Quay. And no other place delivers it with such a casually hip feel. Extras include cool tunes from a DJ or band, a great crowd that’s a mix of locals and visitors and the kind of sunsets that inspire songs.
8PM
The hungries have hit? If you haven’t had enough of that view, you fancy something fancy, you’ve thought far enough ahead to book and money is no object, mosey down a few doors to the internationally acclaimed Aria restaurant. It’s owned by celebrated Aussie chef Matt Moran. Six freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters with chorizo, tomato and crispy potato will set you back A$36/S$46, but they’ll be exceptional. Cheaper dining options include Vini in Surry Hills, where a bowl of pasta and a glass of Italian red are sure to hit the spot. Just be prepared for a wait, albeit a fun one. They take your mobile phone number, leaving you free to go off for a beer at any of the nearby pubs. Arrived late? For dining at or after the witching hour, try Aperitif or Favela, both at Kings Cross.
11PM
You’ve got a big day tomorrow, but a nightcap at The Ivy isn’t going to hurt. However, you’ll need to be dressed to impress. This is one of Sydney’s full-tilt, beautiful-people venues with multiple bars spaced over its many floors. Cocktails cost around A$18/S$23. If you’d prefer some place a bit more low-key and with a grungier vibe, take a taxi to The Different Drummer in the inner-west suburb of Glebe for cocktails and tapas. It stays open late and is always a winner when you’re in town late and in the mood for a light meal and drink.
9AM
Dust out those cobwebs with an early-morning swim. Take your pick of the beaches, from iconic Bondi to its sweet little brothers and sisters along the coast in the eastern suburbs. Clovelly is more sedate and family friendly than Bondi, as is the pool at Bronte. For serious laps, try Wylie’s Baths at Coogee. Still feeling energetic? The beaches are linked to kilometres of walking tracks that offer glorious views.
10.30AM
Sydney takes its first meal of the day very seriously, especially on weekends. And no place is more synonymous with breakfast than Bills. Restaurateur Bill Granger made Sydney’s morning meal the gourmet affair it is today, challenging all comers to step up to his classic ricotta pancakes (A$19/S$24) and corn fritters (A$18/S$23). And if you can’t get a table at any of his three cafés, you’re sure to find some tasty options nearby.
NOON
Browse bric-a-brac at any or all of the city’s fabulous flea markets. Paddington is a long-time favourite. Right on Oxford Street, its stalls snake around the lovely old sandstone public school buildings.
You can pick up some good handcrafted souvenirs here. Across the ANZAC Bridge in Rozelle, another school is given over to sellers of everything from vintage clothing to Vietnamese spring rolls. The market on Glebe Point Rd is an inner-west institution. If it’s the first Saturday of the month, Surry Hills Market will be open at Crown St. Be prepared, it’s a hangout for fashionistas. And if it’s raining, stop by the Fringe Bar in Paddington, which is given over to new designers who typically flog their wares to hipsters who browse with tipple in hand.
NOT FEELING TOO ENERGETIC?
A hidden gem for art lovers is the Brett Whiteley Studio, where one of Australia’s most celebrated 20th-century painters lived and worked from 1988 to 1992. An intimate, surprisingly powerful space, the studio exhibits a compelling selection of Whiteley’s work, and gives glimpses of his private world, too. Best of all, it’s free.
3PM
You’ll have worn off that big breaky by now. Settle in for some Saturday afternoon snacks or a late lunch and a nice glass of something at the Gazebo Wine Garden. Consistently voted one of Sydney’s favourite hang-outs, its Parisian feel is sure to seduce you. Sharing plates start at A$17/S$22 and include paté, ciabatta and dips, along with veal and chorizo sausages.
5PM
Go west, young man, for another perspective on this wonderful city. Start with a sundowner at Astral Bar, Star City, where the views from the terrace are sublime and the cocktails aren’t too shabby either. Feeling more casual? Do a pub crawl along King St, Newtown, where Sydney uni students, musos and the like tend to imbibe. Try the Marlborough (aka the “Marly”), the Sandringham (aka the “Sando”) and the Bank Hotel.
8PM
Dinner options in Sydney range from bargain-priced Thai, Chinese and Korean to haute cuisine. For cheap eats, Sydney Madang is in the heart of the city’s relatively new Little Korea on the edge of Chinatown. Hip, bright young things can often be seen enjoying the barbeque in this little gem at the end of a laneway. It’s open until midnight. The beef chilli steamboat for two will set you back a mere A$40/S$51.
If it’s a quintessential Sydney foodie experience you desire, look no further than Neil Perry’s revitalised Rockpool. It’s bliss for seafood lovers, in particular. And at A$130/S$166 per person for four-course à la carte meals, and exceptional wines by the glass starting at A$15/S$19, it’s a surprisingly affordable place to dine.
11PM
If you’re still raring to go, Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are the nightclub centres of Sydney. And Q Bar is the partying equivalent of the war room. Just be warned, Sunday morning sunshine can arrive sooner than you think. Located in the same building as Q Bar, Spectrum is one of Sydney’s more rocking live band venues and is equally time-sucking. As is Arq, the queen of Sydney’s big, bold, brassy gay dance clubs.
10AM
After a little sleep-in, try yum cha (the custom of sampling many different foods) in Sydney’s Chinatown to soothe your hangover. If you’ve woken refreshed, have breakfast at the Fort Denison Café & Restaurant. Its location in a convict labour-built fort on a small island in the middle of Sydney Harbour makes it a unique place to dine. Ferries leave from Circular Quay and Darling Harbour regularly.
NOON
No visit to Sydney is complete without a stroll around The Rocks. It’s touristy, sure, but it’s where the First Fleet of settlers landed in 1788 and where Australia’s western history began. Even today, visitors can catch glimpses of the colony that the city once was. There are also some great shops and pubs here and the views aren’t half bad either. You might consider doing a bridge climb or you could just stroll around the markets and historic buildings. There’s plenty to eat at the market stalls, or pop into one of the great old pubs for a bite. Also, swing by the Museum of Contemporary Art.
4PM
There is no better place to be on a sunny Sunday afternoon than Icebergs Dining Room and Bar. A perennial favourite with celebrities, those wanting to be seen, those not wanting to be seen, locals just hanging out and visitors just dropping in, Icebergs is a Sydney institution. Settle in to be part of the time-honoured tradition of the Sunday session, complete with chilled champagne and fresh seafood. Choose the steak for an early dinner, or perhaps a nice piece of flounder. Or just graze on nibbles as you wile away the hours in perfectly relaxed style. And as your flight out is at 10pm, you’ll have an ideal opportunity to experience the sunset and still make it to the airport in time for check-in.
Head to Circular Quay and jump on a ferry to visit the seaside suburb of Manly. Don’t forget your camera, as the 30-minute trip offers spectacular sights all on its own. Sandwiched between the harbour and the beach, Manly is renowned for its laidback attitude and stunning views. Matt Grainger, proprietor of the Manly Surf School, offers some tips:
BEST SPOT FOR BREAKFAST?
There’s a huge choice for breakfast at Manly. There are the beachfront cafés such as Honolulu Grill, Ash’s Table and Blue Water or, over on the harbour side, enjoy a gourmet-style breakfast at Café Chill or Garfish. The crab omelet at Garfish, which is only open for breakfast on weekends, is sensational.
BEST MORNING ACTIVITIES?
The day’s got to start with a surf lesson at Manly Surf School. North Steyne – the break in the middle of Manly – has been voted as one of Sydney’s cleanest beaches, year in and year out. Some mornings we’re lucky enough to be able to surf with dolphins, and occasionally we see a whale passing by.
LUNCH?
Manly’s spoiled when it comes to lunch spots. For a surfer‘s lunch you can‘t beat the pies – from chicken with avocado and brie to chicken satay to Thai vegetable – at the Upper Crust Bakery at Long Reef, about a 15-minute drive north of Manly.
AN EVENING DRINK?
Sink a beer at 4 Pines – the tasting rack with sizeable samplers for A$15/S$19 is a great value – have a glass of wine at Manly Wharf Hotel, or visit Hugos Manly for a Pash cocktail – Absolut Kurant, Jaggard and Cointreau shaken with fresh passion fruit, apple and grapefruit juice and served in a martini glass with a sugar rim.
DINNER?
For the five-star gourmet experience, you can’t beat Sardinian restaurant Pilu at Freshwater Beach. You’ll never forget savouring the zuppa del pescatore, a selection of fresh shellfish, marron and molluscs in a rich tomato broth.
WHAT’S YOUR PLEASURE?
You could spend a whole night (and the next day and night if you like!) in Kings Cross alone, going from bar to nightclub to late-night den. Or hang out with an artier crowd in Surry Hills, or with the fashionistas and gay community in Darlinghurst. For after-work drinks and a more down-to-earth vibe, try King Street Wharf, where options for dinner, dancing and drinking abound.
OUR PICKS?
For cocktails and a relaxed dinner in softly lit, opulent surroundings, hipsters head to The Victoria Room. Level 1, 235 Victoria St, Darlinghurst, tel: +61 (0)2 9357 4488
Just down the way, deep in Kings Cross, Bayswater Brasserie is for those who are dead serious about their booze. This is an award-winning cocktail lounge with Olympic expertise behind the bar. Dinner is no slouch either. 32 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross, tel: +61 (0)2 9357 2177
For live music with a sophisticated twist, opt for The Basement, where touring greats sometimes turn up for a jam session. Or visit The Vanguard, a slice of civilised tunefulness where tables topped with white linen and lamps face the stage. The Basement, 29 Reiby Pl, Circular Quay, tel: +61 (0)2 9251 2797; The Vanguard, 42 King St, Newtown, tel: +61 (0)2 9557 7992
If, however, you like your music scene loud and sweaty, then the World Bar is the place to go. 24 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross, tel: +61 (0)2 9357 7700
“Depending on how late I finish work on Friday, I like to head home, start to unwind and then meet up with some friends. Sticky Bar in Surry Hills is fun for pre-dinner drinks. If you’re with a big group, I’d recommend the Lebanese restaurant Hannibal’s, also in Surry Hills. It has different rooms to dine in, including the cushion room, which is decked out in traditional Lebanese décor. The food is amazing. There are so many courses. Oh, and there’s a belly dancer! It’s a great atmosphere for a night out. On Saturdays, I like to head to the gym first thing in the morning, followed by breakfast at Corelli’s Café on King Street in Newtown. My favourite dish is the Byron breakfast – poached eggs, smoked salmon on sourdough with avocado and wasabi mayonnaise. It’s amazing. If the weather is great (luckily that’s pretty often) I head to Bondi Beach for a swim. Fishmongers at Bondi is a favourite for lunch. There’s fish and chips and healthier alternatives, too. If I’m with a group of friends, a late-afternoon picnic at the Botanical Gardens is a perfect way to spend the afternoon. On Saturday nights, I head to the cinema or check out a play at the Belvoir Street Theatre in Surry Hills.”
Luke Mitchell, actor on TV’s Home and Away
5 TOP SHOPPING PRECINCTS1 PADDINGTON Oxford St up the “Paddo” end is great, but it’s the side streets – Williams St, Five Ways and Glenmore Rd – that shine with bespoke boutiques.
2 BONDI
Funky, fashionable and fun: some locals just can’t seem to leave, even though there’s a mammoth Westfield Mall right up the way at Bondi Junction. Serious fashion fiends choose Gould St.
3 SURRY HILLS
Crown St is fantastic for vintage finds. Between it and Central Station is a treasure trove of designer houseware and fashions.
4 CITY
For high-end designer gear, head to Martin Pl, Castlereagh and King Sts. Also check out the Queen Victoria Building and the Strand Arcade.
5 NEWTOWN
King St and Enmore Rd are a bit more mainstream than they used to be, but the farther west you go, the more kooky things get.
MY PERFECT SATURDAY NIGHT“I usually work until about 7pm and then I like to go out for drinks with my staff. There’s a new place that’s just opened called The Winery in Surry Hills. We often go there for a couple of drinks and then I like to go out for dinner.
My ultimate place is Icebergs at Bondi. I’ve never had a bad experience there. The energy is always the same – fantastic and buzzy. I love the aged Wagyu steak and the saffron fairy floss. After that, we might have a drink at Will & Toby’s, because I live in Darlinghurst. It has three levels. You can usually get a seat and have a conversation but if you feel like dancing, on Saturday nights they play ’70s disco on the middle floor, which I really like. Then we stagger home.”
Brad Ngata, owner of Brad Ngata Hair Directions in Darlinghurst and the city
MY PERFECT SUNDAY“Cruising around Sydney Harbour on our friend’s boat with a fresh seafood picnic and a case of champagne.”
Gail Elliot, model/fashion designer
BUDGET
Arts Hotel
This small, family-run hotel is nothing fancy, but its friendly ambience and location right in the heart of “Paddo” make it special. There’s a pool and limited free parking along with free wi-fi and bicycles. Doubles start from around A$145/S$186 per night.
21 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, Paddington, tel: +61 (0)2 9361 0211, www.artshotel.com.au
MID-RANGE
Holiday Inn Old Sydney
It’s all about that rooftop pool, with views across to the Opera House. Located in the heart of The Rocks, there’s easy access to ferries, buses, trains and the city, too. You’d expect to pay much more for a location like this. The hotel has a Rocks Package, which includes a three-night stay with breakfast for two each day, from A$199/S$256 per night.
55 George St, The Rocks, tel: +61 (0)2 9252 0524
HIGH END
Observatory Hotel
Contrary to the name, this hotel doesn’t offer starry views (though you can glimpse the waters of Walsh Bay). However, it does lure presidents, four-star generals and beyond-the-A-list celebs into its lavish olde-worlde embrace. Rates start at A$315/S$405 per night.
89-113 Kent St, The Rocks, tel: +61 (0)2 9256 2222, www.observatoryhotel.com.au
Honolulu Grill, 93 North Steyne, tel: +61 (0)2 9976 6999
Ash’s Table, 93 North Steyne, tel: +61 (0)2 9976 3382
Blue Water Café, 28 South Steyne, tel: +61 (0)2 9976 2051
Café Chill, West Esplanade, tel: +61 (0)2 9907 8813
Garfish, 39 East Esplanade, tel: +61 (0)2 9977 0707
Manly Surf School, North Steyne, tel: +61 (0)2 9977 6977
Upper Crust Bakery, Pittwater Rd, Long Reef, tel: +61 (0)2 9971 5182
4 Pines, 43-45 East Esplanade, tel: +61 (0)2 9976 2300
Manly Wharf Hotel, East Esplanade, tel: +61 (0)2 9977 1266
Hugos Manly, Manly Wharf, tel: +61 (0)2 8116 8555
Pilu at Freshwater, Moore Rd, tel: +61 (0)2 9938 3331
Top of the list is Taronga Zoo. Travel by ferry and cable car to see its terrific collection of animals. Admission for children is A$20/S$26 (free for kids under four). For adults, it’s A$41/S$53.
Bradley’s Head Rd, Mosman, tel: +61 (0)2 9969 2777
Visit the fantastic Sydney Aquarium to marvel at platypus, crocodiles, seals and penguins among others. There’s also a cool shark tunnel and a Barrier Reef exhibit. Admission fees start at A$23/S$30 for children. Family passes are also available.
Aquarium Pier, Darling Harbour, tel: +61 (0)2 8251 7800
The garish face of Luna Park has been staring back at the city from the north side of the harbour since 1935. Enjoy the rollercoaster, ferris wheel and Coney Island. Entry is free, single ride passes are A$10/S$13 and it’s A$45/S$58 for an adult day pass.
1 Olympic Dr, Milson’s Point, tel: +61 (0)2 9033 7676, www.lunaparksydney.com
FRIDAY
Opera Bar, Lower Concourse Level, Sydney Opera House, tel: +61 (0)2 9247 1666
Aria, 1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay, tel: +61 (0)2 9252 2555
Vini, 3/118 Devonshire St, tel: +61 (0)2 9698 5131
Aperitif, 7 Kellett St, Kings Cross, tel: +61 (0)2 9357 4729
Favela, 1 Kellett Way, Kings Cross, tel: +61 (0)2 9347 1640
The Ivy, 320/330 George St, tel: +61 (0)2 9240 3000
The Different Drummer, 185 Glebe Point Rd, tel: +61 (0)2 9552 3406
SATURDAY
Wylie’s Baths, Coogee Coastal Walk, Neptune St, tel: +61 (0)2 9665 2838
Bills, 433 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst; 359 Crown St, Surry Hills; 118 Queens St, Woollahra, www.bills.com.au
Fringe Bar, Oxford St, Paddington, tel: +61 (0)2 9360 5443
Brett Whiteley Studio, 2 Raper St, Surry Hills, tel: +61 (0)2 9225 1881
Gazebo Wine Gdn, 2 Elizabeth Bay Rd, Elizabeth Bay, tel: +61 (0)2 9357 5333
Astral Bar, 17F, Star City, 80 Pyrmont St, tel: +61 (0)2 9777 9000
The Marlborough Hotel, 145 King St, tel: +61 (0)2 9519 1222
The Sandringham, 87 King St, tel: +61 (0)2 9557 1254
The Bank Hotel, 324 King St, tel: +61 (0)2 8568 1900
Sydney Madang, 371A Pitt St, tel: +61 (0)2 9264 7010
Rockpool, 107 George St, The Rocks, tel: +61 (0)2 9252 1888
Q Bar, The Exchange Hotel, 33-41 Oxford St, tel: +61 (0)2 9360 1375
Spectrum, The Exchange Hotel, 33-41 Oxford St, tel: +61 (0)2 9360 1375
Arq, 16 Flinders St, Taylor Square, tel: +61 (0)2 9380 8700
SUNDAY
Fort Denison Café & Restaurant, Harbourside, tel: +61 (0)2 9358 1999
Museum of Contemporary Art, 140 George St, The Rocks, tel: +61 (0)2 9245 2400
Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, 1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach, tel: +61 (0)2 9365 9000
BRAD NGATA’S SATURDAY NIGHT
The Winery, 285a Crown St, Surry Hills, tel: +61 (0)2 9331 0833
Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, 1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach, tel: +61 (0)2 9365 9000
Will & Toby’s, 134 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, tel: +61 (0)2 9331 3467
LUKE MITCHELL’S WEEKEND
Sticky Bar, Level 2, 182 Campbell St, Surry Hills, tel: +61 (0)4 1609 6916
Hannibal’s, 557 Elizabeth St, Surry Hills, tel: +61 (0)2 9698 8288
Corelli’s Café, 352 King St, Newtown, tel: +61 (0)2 9550 4080
Fishmongers, 42 Hall St, Bondi Beach, tel: +61 (0)2 9365 2205
Belvoir Street Theatre, Surry Hills, tel: +61 (0)2 9698 3344
1 Harry’s Café de Wheels is a Sydney favourite, particularly late at night among those who’ve had a few beers at nearby pubs. Try the pie with mashed potato, peas and gravy and you’ll get change from 10 bucks.
Cnr Cowper Wharf Roadway and Brougham Rd, Woolloomooloo, tel: +61 (0)2 9357 3074, www.harryscafedewheels.com.au
2 Hire a bike and pedal around the city’s favourite green space, Centennial Park. Less than 5km from the CBD, it’s a place where you can feed the swans, enjoy the flowers, climb a tree or have a snooze. Centennial Park Cycles offers rentals starting at A$15/S$19.
50 Clovelly Rd, Randwick, tel: +61 (0)2 9398 5027
3 Take a walk on the wild side. The City of Sydney’s “The Walk of Fame and Shame” itineraries detail the rock ‘n’ roll glories of Oxford St in the east and King St and Enmore Rd in the west. Best of all, they’re free to download. www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/aboutsydney
4 Hire a kayak and see the harbour from sea level. Sydney Harbour Kayaks has rentals from as little as A$20/S$26. Or opt for a tour, a good deal at A$99/S$127 for four hours.
The Spit Bridge, Mosman, tel: +61 (0)2 9960 4389
5 Yuk it up at The Laugh Garage, where it’s stand-up comedy in an old-school setting – just a red curtain, a microphone and a whole lot of laughs.
Cnr Elizabeth and Park Sts, tel: +61 (0)2 8883 1111
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