Leaping Lions

At the Wong Fei Hung Museum near Guangzhou, JILLIAN MITCHELL is given an eye-popping lesson in the art of the lion dance and an introduction to its most famous and highly skilled practitioner

Its yellow colouring indicates that this is the oldest and wisest lion. Staring down at a bridge, the enormous cat shudders and shakes with fear as pounding drum beats quicken, ratcheting up the tension. Tentatively, it puts one paw down, and then another. Suddenly, the bridge collapses in dramatic fashion and the sounds of the clamourous drum, cymbals and gong become loud and furious.

Rearing up, the lion teeters momentarily on its hind legs before dropping back down and stabilising itself on the ground. Seconds later, it surges into the air, crossing the gap where the bridge once was. The crowd gasps, holding its collective breath for a moment before the lion lands perfectly, to an appreciative round of applause.

Immediately making a 90-degree turn, the lion leaps twice more towards the audience, then rears up again. The music slows and the volume softens. Perched atop two poles, the big cat waits patiently and surveys the situation as if plotting its next move. Springing into action once more, the lion moves towards its target, carefully removes the prize, then rears up again in what appears to be a victory dance. Task completed, the lion leaps back the way it came.

Welcome to the Wong Fei Hung Museum, an hour’s drive from Guangzhou, famous for its daily lion dance and kung fu demonstrations. But it’s the legendary Wong Fei Hung who is the real attraction here. Often referred to as the Chinese Robin Hood, Wong the hero has been immortalised in more than 100 films, most notably those in the Once Upon a Time in China series starring Jet Li.

A gifted martial artist, Wong was a master of hong jia, one of the oldest styles of kung fu in China. Legend has it that he single-handedly defeated a gang of 30 men on the docks of Guangzhou, using nothing more than a simple wooden staff. Also a dedicated practitioner of traditional Chinese medicine, Wong is said to have helped people in need whether they had the ability to pay him or not. His exceptional lion dance skills earned him the nickname “King of the Lions” throughout Guangzhou.

The legend of Wong Fei Hung lives on at this memorial. Along with a timeline tracing Wong’s life and achievements, there is a tribute to the actor who portrayed him in at least 77 movies, Kwan Tak Hing. But it’s the daily kung fu and lion dance demonstrations performed by students of the museum that are the highlight of any visit. Collectively, the students have won more than 60 titles, awards and competitions over the past 10 years. Although each demonstration lasts less than a minute, the performers’ purposeful movements and powers of concentration make for awe-inspiring viewing.

It’s a small, select group of students, each of whom aspire to Wong’s greatness and all of whom were attracted by the quality of the resident masters. At any one time there are no more than 20 students, ranging in age from 15 to 25.

The answer to the question of where

and how the lion dance came into being tends to depend on who is telling the story. Performed during festivals and on other special occasions, the lion dance is said to bring good luck, prosperity, peace and happiness. For the students, lion dance training is an opportunity to demonstrate their skills in a non-combat environment. Traditionally, the lion dance has been viewed as embodying the spirit and quality of a kung fu school and, for this reason, it is generally performed publicly by only the very best students.

There is a marked difference between the so-called northern and southern styles of lion dance. Steeped in symbolism, the southern style was developed using a combination of auspicious aspects of Chinese culture. Each step is carefully choreographed using a kung fu movement. In the north, lion dance performers are viewed more as acrobats.

The evolution of the lion dance in the south began after the destruction of the southern Shaolin Temple by the rulers of the Manchurian Chi’ing (Qing) dynasty (1644-1911). Monks fled to rural areas in and around Canton, often teaching martial arts under assumed names to avoid capture. During this period, the dance was often used to pass messages among those seeking to overthrow the government.

In the late 1800s, staging a lion dance became a popular method of challenging other kung fu schools. However, by the 1950s, the art had fallen into disrepute, many parents no longer wanting their children involved in an activity that had become linked to gang-related violence. The lion dance was even banned in a number of countries. Today, its reputation as an icon of Chinese culture has been restored, although its earlier strong ties to kung fu are now all but non-existent.

Still, the adrenalin-pumping lion dance routines that are performed here are a sign of Wong Fei Hung’s enduring legacy. While the many films about Wong have tended to emphasise the fantasy side of his feats, demonstrations such as those at this museum seek to honour his memory through their excellence. They’re a fitting tribute to the man behind the legend.

KUNG FU AND LION DANCE PERFORMANCES ARE HELD DAILY AT 9.30AM, 10.30AM, 2.30PM AND  
3.30PM AT WONG FEI HUNG MUSEUM (LUZHOU VILLAGE, XIQIAO, FOSHAN CITY, NANHAI DISTRICT, TEL: +86 0757 8689 6989). ADMISSION TO THE MUSEUM IS CNY50 (S$10/ AU$9) AND INCLUDES PERFORMANCES.

LION DANCE 101

So you’ve experienced the thrill of the performance, but aren’t sure what it all meant? Here’s a primer:
Although the lion dance is often viewed strictly as entertainment, there is a more serious purpose to this longstanding cultural tradition. Troupes are regularly commissioned to perform in China and much of South-East Asia as a way to banish evil or ornery spirits. “The spirits are afraid of the lion,” says Lucas Tan, a lion dance performer and 12-year veteran of Singapore’s Nam Sieng Dragon and Lion Dance Activity Centre. “The lion is fierce, and the dance is a tradition that chases away the spirits and bad luck.” The troupe is typically hired to grace the opening ceremonies of hotels, airports and schools, and to perform at weddings. “It brings good luck and prosperity,” Tan explains. And depending on the perceived severity of the spiritual presence at any given location or ceremony, lion dancers will don different colours. “Black is the most fierce,” says Tan, but red comes next. “Red is preferred because in Chinese culture, red is such a lucky, lucky colour.” Nina-Noelle Hall